How to Live Like a Rock Star (or Tango Star) in Buenos Aires… 48 Comments
One of the most common questions I’m asked is: what is your favorite place you’ve visited? While I love dozens of cities and just as many countries, I have four that immediately jump to mind: San Francisco, Tokyo, Berlin, and Buenos Aires. I’ve listed them in descending order of expense, and this is where I’ll tie it back to an oddly common question I get:
How do I become a tango expert?
I’m the first American to hold a Guinness World Record in tango, which was done on a lark while I was living in BsAs (that’s Buenos Aires) in 2005 and competed in the world championships. Fortunately for you, dear reader, becoming a tango expert and living like a rock star can go hand-in-hand if you hack BsAs properly.
First, why BsAs? Four reasons off the top of my head:
1. Created by immigrants from Spain, Italy, and Germany, you get the best food, architecture, and culture from all three. This mix of genetics also produces some incredible physical specimens. In fact, I rank Argentines right up there with Norwegians as the most beautiful people in the world.
2. In my experience, it’s the safest city in South America. It looks like Paris in many places, and I have never felt threatened on the street, even after 2am. Try that in SF or NYC.
3. Argentina is the New Zealand of the western hemisphere. From tropical rain forests in the north to world-class skiing in Patagonia, it has it all. Check out rare tropical birds or watch penguins get eaten by killer whales — it’s your choice. Argentina is the most beautifully diverse country I have ever visited.
4. It is possible to live like a millionaire on $30,000 a year. I’ve been there four times and can tell you this: dollars get you a quality of life that is all but impossible in the US. Even with the getting-there costs, I saved more than $10,000 on my last trip when compared to just sitting on my ass in Silicon Valley, and I was living like a rock star the whole time in BsAs: 5-star meals, VIP tables, you name it.
So, should you take the jump and move to Argentina? I have friends who have done it, but I recommend you take a 1-3-month “mini-retirement” first to take it for a test drive. Here are a few recommendations to get you started:
1. Timing:
Airfare will run between $500-850 roundtrip, so ensure that you’re staying for a while. Remember that it’s summer and hot as hell in BsAs in December-January. November or March-April are gorgeous, and summer time in the US is perfect for skiing in Bariloche or Las Lenas.
2. Flights:
I generally fly Continental/Copa through Panama, as I like to spend 1-4 weeks snorkeling in Coiba in Panama (why not get two trips for the price of one?). If not, Aerolineas Argentina often offers good prices, and you can sometimes get deals by flying into Rio or Sao Paulo, Brazil and then to BsAs on Gol or TAM. check airfares immediately after 1am on Saturday nights (Sunday mornings), when many airlines lower prices based on “flight load” (ratio of sold-to-empty seats).
3. Housing:
One negative to Argentina, especially BsAs — people will attempt to overcharge you. This will happen in any country with weak currency. I’ve rented rooms with families, used Argentine brokers to get shared apartments, rented posh penthouses from expats, and found hidden gems through Germans. My conclusion? It’s not worth the headache to deal with most Argentines and attempt to save a few hundred dollars. I had a huge pain in the ass with a dishonest Argentine landlord who refused to return my deposit — and I speak fluent Argentine Spanish — so now I deal exclusively with non-Argentines. There are some great Argies, to be sure, but they have the reputation among South Americans for being unreliable (!). Use www.craigslist.org or my favorite outfit: http://www.ba4uapartments.com.ar I’m not gay, but I do like how gay-friendly agencies keep their apartments: impeccably clean.
You’ll pay 3x more than an Argentine. A decent room in a good location can be found for $300 USD, a great single bedroom apartment can be found for $700-800 USD, but here’s one tip: if you can get a friend to come with you (or if you have a family), a two-bedroom or three-bedroom can be had for $1,200-1,300, and it will be 10x more luxurious than the one-bedroom. My favorite areas to live are, in descending order of preference: Recoleta (I like near Plaza Francia), Palermo, Barrio Norte, and San Telmo. Puerto Madero is the most expensive area and people fight for it, but it’s quite boring unless it’s a weekend evening.
4. Clubs, VIP treatment, and Food:
Spend an evening walking around one of the best hotels in BsAs, such as The Four Seasons, Sheraton, or Hotel Alvear, and make friends with one of the managers on call. They get VIP tables at all of the top clubs — Asia de Cuba, Opera Bay, Mint, Amerika, etc. — and can get you on the lists, so invite them for drinks and ask them for suggestions of where to meet. If not, just visit the clubs around 10pm on a Thursday or Friday and ask to meet the director of special events, or the manager (“gerente”). Tell him you’d like to bring some friends to the club and ask how to get on the list. Keep his card in your wallet to flash at bouncers. Worst case scenario, just spend $50 USD with a few friends and you can get a 6-person VIP table with unlimited champagne for the night ;)
For wining and dining, my faves are Gran Bar Danzon and La Bistecca, but more than both combined, I love all of the hole-in-the-wall parrillada (Argentine BBQ) restaurants. Just wander down Lavalle off of Avenida Florida and take your pick: the beef sandwiches for $3 USD (use plenty of chimichurri) will blow your mind.
5. Tango:
I had no interest in tango before visiting Argentina. I thought it was effeminate and ridiculous, something out of Shall We Dance? (the Japanese original is not to be missed) The truth is that social tango is completely improvised (much like my first love, breakdancing). Chest to chest, strangers will embrace and get to know each other more in three minutes than 10 dates would otherwise accomplish. Every night of the week, tango rules the night, only really getting started around 1am. Here are some of my favorite milongas (tango dance halls):
“New wave” (nueva onda) tango and 20-30-something crowd:
“La Viruta” at Armenia and Cordoba, inside the Armenian Cultural Center (odd, I know). 1am+ on Wed, Sat, and Sunday are awesome. I took a kiwi friend of mine there the day before he flew back to NZ, and he said to me: “Thanks for ruining my life.” He had been in BsAs for three months and had never seen such wildlife.
Traditional and older crowd: “Sunderland” or “La Baldosa” — find “El Tangauta” magazine in any tango shop, or at La Viruta, for addresses and all the tango info you can handle. Also use Ctrl-F to find any of the milongas I mention here.
If it is your first time in BsAs, I would recommend having an Argentine friend call the teachers and ask for pricing for an unnamed “friend,” not mentioning that you’re a foreigner. Otherwise, I promise that you will be overcharged. Smelling dollars, someone who should cost 50 pesos/hour will ask for 80 dollars. You should be able to get excellent private lessons for 50 pesos/hour. Good group lessons can be found at the Carlos Coppelo school in front of Shopping Abasto. My favorite private teacher is the young prodigy Gabriel Misse, but he’s going to be more expensive than most. He trained me for the world championships and is amazing. Here is a clip of Gabriel and his partner Alejandra Martinan. It starts off slow, but watch the amazing footwork as they progress. Most amazing? It is ALL improvised on the spot.
I you want to live like a king, it’s just a few thousand miles south. Viva la Argentina!
Posted on March 30th, 2007
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48 Responses to “How to Live Like a Rock Star (or Tango Star) in Buenos Aires…”
9:31 pm
I have to go there! Your other three cities (SF, Tokyo, Berlin) are all on my top 10 list for sure (SF at the top!).
Great advice.
2:29 pm
Thanks for the great advice, Tim, I look forward to hearing your traveler’s advice for Tokyo, and to planning a trip myself, taking that leap of faith in going from blog-reading aspiring lifestyle designer to savorer of life’s many great opportunities and adventures. Keep up the great work.
6:50 pm
Hi Ryan, “How to Live Like a Rockstar in Tokyo” is slated for the next few weeks, so keep your eyes open! I spend less in Tokyo — and live better — than in San Francisco. Lots of tools and tricks on the way. Two tips in advance: get a “Suica” prepaid travel card and dine in the small hipster restaurants above the fifth floor in downtown Shinjuku. More to come…
11:14 pm
This information is priceless! I have visited over fifty countries and agree wholeheartedly with you Tim on Buenos Aires…. the quality of life you get plus the energy of the place make it nearly unbeatable for dynamic living… and its CHEAP!!! BsAs is in my top five places on the planet, in fact all that place needs is a clean surfable beach and for me it would probably go straight to number one. Having lived there I would list my two favourie spots to park up as Palermo (in summer) and Recoleta (in winter and for convenience). Tim, for the amount of headaches and time you are going to save people and the ideas you are providing I think you should be charging for this mate. Either that or Ferriss Tours to South America should be up and running. Count me in :)
Chris Ashenden
(writing from Sydney)
8:13 am
OK, so I’m sold on the 4 hour work week and on Buenos Aires, but when are you explain how generate income remotely? Not that I don’t believe, I just want to start figuring out how to escape a desk job.
10:59 am
Wow…i had wanted to go to BsAs before but now i am salivating, and the tips on getting a VIP night out are gold, wonder if that works in other cities too…loved the detail, down to the actual bars to go to..you ought to publish travel books, id buy one!
Elisa (London)
12:46 am
Thanks, Elisa! John, regarding remote income generation, I’ll be posting more on that in the near future, but I’d encourage you to first determine your Target Monthly Income (TMI), which is calculated once you define your ideal lifestyle in terms of activities and belongings. Here is where you can get started: http://www.fourhourworkweek.com/ferriss-resources-lifestyle.htm
The vehicle you choose for income generation, whether outsourcing your job to overseas assistants, licensing, creating a product or other, will depend on your TMI.
Most to come soon — promise.
1:07 pm
Wow, as an Argentine living in SF I have to tell you your review was not only spot on, but wonderfully researched and written. And your appreciation of us being cheap or trying to overprice is ABSOLUTELY TRUE!
And also, we have a quirky, witty, dry sense of humor (similar to the English?) that people from other South American countries have a hard time to understand (it comes off as cocky and disrespectful). So, prepare your self-esteems and don’t get offended easily!
3:47 pm
Jorge,
Thanks for the comment, che! I completely agree with the wit of Argies being somewhat British. I would actually say that it’s similar to the humor of Kiwis in New Zealand. They love to give each other a hard time, but it’s all in fun. “Boludo, que haces?!” for example. I suspect that a lot of it is the Italian (emotional and sarcastic) and German (dry) humor influence from the immigrants who defined BsAs.
Thanks for reading y mucho gusto conocerte! Tim
8:00 pm
[…] Week” fame), whom I first had heard of on some audio from SXSW. On one of his posts, called How to Live Like a Rock Star (or Tango Star) in Buenos Aires…, he goes into detail on why he thinks Buenos Aires is one of the best cities you can live on. Some […]
5:44 pm
Sorry for the lack of response! Thanks for responding to my questions! I just wanted to let you know that I´ve settled into Buenos Aires quite well… I love it!
Unlike you, I never took a class in Spanish before coming here, and so am spending some time doing that and really enjoying learning a new language. Am also in the process of getting into the Tango scene… Gabriel Misse has these group classes on Rodriguez Pena literally meters from my appt, starting this last week that are amazing. Tango classes are also an excellent way to learn spanish (teachers tend to speak more slowly…). I have an appt in the Recoletta area, not the bottom prices that you quoted but pretty reasonable (at least much less than what some agencies will quote you). Thanks for all the price quotes, really helped me to gauge things. And of course, the clubs and restaurants, and cafes are all amazing…
Seems like every time I go to a Milonga, I meet someone from SF… quite funny actually.
Thanks again for all the advice… I have one more question, how did you manage private Tango lessons for 50 pesos an hour? Quotes I get are 150, and if you do a lot of them then 70 pesos an hour.
5:49 pm
Forgot to say that am also a fan of Mint…
9:08 pm
Hi Tanja,
Glad to hear you’re enjoying BsAs! Those damn Californians will start to disappear as the weather cools off ;)
To get the best prices for anything, including tango lessons, you need to have an Argentine negotiate them via phone as if the product/service were for an Argentine, then introduce you in person when it’s too late for them to change the price. It’s a bit of passive-aggressive bait-and-switch, but it’s the only fail-proof way I’ve found to avoid getting fleeced.
Tim Tim
2:35 pm
without me reading the other comments I have to say that Tim explained he have been to Beunos 4 times but he never said for what length of time. I believe that if you stay their for 6 months then your point of view may be totally different. Sure you should visit, but, living in another country is a major decisiion. I suggest that you should stay in your prospective country renting for 6 months before you make the leap.
Good luck
2:43 pm
I am a tango addict. Friends of mine just recently moved to BA and I hope to be visiting them sometime this year.
10:06 am
[…] Check out The 4 Hour Work Week at amazon. Tim also has a blog setup with fun entries like How to Live Like a Rock Star in Buenos Aires. Filed under: Lifestyle | Author: Greg […]
12:52 pm
Tim,
I bought your book yesterday. I love it. I am from Argentina, but living currently in Boston. I have a couple of friends living in BA who have been NR without even knowing it! They have been providing outsourced services to big firms in the US with amazing success. They travel a lot and feel a lot of freedom in their lives. Oh, by the way, they started their internet business with two 486 PCs and a 2400 modem…
My wife and I plan to go back to South America and start a business of similar characteristics sometime in the future. She is from Uruguay, another wonderful country you should visit some day.
We are looking for investment opportunities using our connections with the three countries (USA, Arg., Ur.). Your book has become an instant inspiration for that purpose. I look forward to go deeper in it and share ideas with people in this blog.
Thanks!
Ariel
ps: a small typo that could be fixed in the second edition of the book: It is “La Rural” not “El Rural”. In any case, I am impressed by your tango skills, man. It takes a lot of courage to display your abilities in front of local crowds.
5:03 pm
Tim,
I love your book. I read it while on vacation last week and couldn’t put it down. I am ready to turn my vacations into mini-retirements
You mention in your book that there is a full 90 day PPC marketing plan on your website. I didn’t see it. Can you direct me. I already have some products, I’d like to try this on
3:03 pm
I have done some of the things you suggest. .. started in ‘99, went to Madrid, Spain, then moved there permanently in 2000, been there ever since. Got to live your dreams, otherwise you will end up old and bitter. Now I need to get passive, massive (or at least sufficient) income, and maybe check out BsAs now that I speak fluent Castillan to get the best deal on living expenses. The big problem with Spain is that it is no longer inexpensive, expecially Madrid, which is something like 25th most expensive in the world now.
Am waiting for delivery of my 4HWW with much anticipation and excitement. Also will start the body building and diet routine… can’t be living like a million and look like a slob.
Thanks, Tim, for everything! You rule!
6:48 am
Tim…Heard about you from John Reese, and have been on your site for more than an hour. You’re providing valuable insights and I wish you much additional success. What you’ve accomplished at such a young age is truly remarkable.
4:09 pm
Hi Tim..
Just wanted to thank you for making this country sound so great. I moved down here yrs ago and I love it…If you’re ever around let me know… te invito a un cortado! Seria bueno que traduzacas tu libro!
Exitos con lo tuyo, Marianna
9:19 pm
The quality of life that you can get in Buenos Aires for just a few hundred bucks a week is unbelievable. The people are amazing as well, I recently moved to Buenos Aires and I found this website helpful. http://www.batraveltips.blogspot.com/
10:56 pm
I think it would be awesome if you started a blog for language lovers. I’m sure there are a lot of people out there who would be interested in your approach to language acquisition.
8:05 am
big tits and ass…
” How to Live Like a Rock Star (or Star) in Buenos Aires……
10:34 am
Hey Tim… still want to see your ideas about “How to Live Like a Rockstar in Tokyoâ€? :)
5:50 am
[…] Neat trick and a hell of a lot of fun. Two of my top picks for positional resets are Argentina (see “How to Live Like a Rock Star (or Tango Star) in Buenos Aires”) and […]
1:03 pm
Hi, Tim. You’ve given me the courage to make the life changes for which I’ve always thirsted. My plan is to try Buenos Aries for relocation. You mentioned an apt that included housekeeping, utilities, internet and body guards. Would you share the name of this place? I’ll be alone. Will I need body guards? Thanks. Marylyn
10:20 pm
Hi Tim, I am going to be spending a few months in Argentina (influenced heavily by your comments in your book and blog) and want to learn Spanish while I am there. Do you have any specific recommendations on people/schools to train with? Also do you recommend and books/cds for before I arrive? Thanks!
11:29 pm
Another bump for How to Live Like a Rockstar in Tokyo . . .
7:22 am
Hei Tim.
I’m from Buenos Aires, living in Oslo. Great description of Baires and the posibilities to live like a rock star! Every time I’m there, I work in my tango, get terrific asado at “El Obrero” and sip champagne with my best friend in Puerto madero til dawn for ridiculous prices!
I got your book two weeks ago.
Man, full inspiration. Thank you.
It works as guideline for some chapters of my own book.
It gave me good tips for organization and the start up a small company.
It re’load concepts that have got rusted lately and remind me to go for what I want and know is possible to get.
A world’s out there full of posibilities.
Thanks for the reminder!
Alfredo
Y totalmente de acuerdo con el comentario sobre los noruegos. Dios mÃo, que bella gente. Vamos Baires, Vamos Oslo, y Aguante Ferris!
7:46 pm
Che Boludo!
Just got back from a trip to BA, and oh my God it rules!
Here’s a tip, the best steak I had was from Trapiche in Palermo.
The key is to get the lomo and ask for it “jugoso” as the Argentines tend to cook their unbelievably good meat way to much. Jugoso means juicy which translates to rare.
You’ve got some spot on tips!
1:43 pm
Hi Tim,
I got a question. I was dancing for 8 years clasical dances and latino dances. The TANGO wich I was learning and dancing is much different from your style. The technique of the steps are the same, but the whole dance is much more calmer than ussual tango I’ve been learning. Can you give me more information about this TANGO?
Best wishes,
Larry
###
Hi Larry!
I suspect you’ve probably been learning “American Tango,” which is a very different animal indeed. Just search for “Argentine Tango” to find the style I practice. More specifically, I practice “tango de salon” or social tango vs. choreographed.
Hope that helps! Tim
3:40 pm
Hi Tim,
I’ve been back in SF from BsAs for two months now…
I took your advice and took classes from Gabriel Misse.
Amazing teacher. Was wondering if you are still tango dancing in SF.
5:36 am
You are the first NorthAmerican.
10:04 am
Hey Tim,
I found your blog very interesting. I agree with most everything you said (being an American frequently living in Buenos Aires), but I am a little afraid that one wouldn’t “really” be able to experience the amazing culture fully if only staying within Recoleta and Palermo. I, too, am guilty of hanging around Palermo a little too much (I dance and teach tango so it only makes sense), but I just love walking the streets and seeing the unique people that I come across. I love coming here because I live like a Porteno. I take the collectivo and the subte and eat medialunas and empanadas all the time. :) I think part of the fun of going someplace new is to live a little in the life of someone else. I know you didn’t say not to not to do this, but I didn’t think there was enough emphasis on this aspect of Bs. As., which for me, truly makes the city top rate.
So when will you be back in town? I would love to dance with you! :)
Check out my newest vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hl68A_-5O8
Besos, Jennifer
12:44 pm
I think it is time for Tim to organize a party in BA and invite all his faithful followers.
12:58 pm
What are the race relations like? I am a dark complexioned, black american woman. How do they treat those of other races? I would love to visit and plan to in the future, whether they like me or not though. Thanks
11:29 am
Dear Gauchos,
I have been to Argentina 7 times and yes it Rocks. My dad is from Mar Del Plata a beach resort 4 hours from BsAs. Pinomar on the Westcoast is great too. Mendoza for the wine is nice I stayed at the Hyatt there. I just love the service and price of the 4 seasons in BA where your poolside they really cater to you and you can meet a superb international crowd.
Oh I’m looking to outsource MBA work for a good rate … any ideas?
6:57 am
bump for toyko
9:04 am
[…] This is the first time I have written a post on this blog since March 30, 2007, 366 days ago, when I penned “How to Live Like a Rock Star in Buenos Aires.” […]
9:20 pm
[…] This is the first time I have written a post on this blog since March 30, 2007, 366 days ago, when I penned “How to Live Like a Rock Star in Buenos Aires.” […]
8:07 pm
Figure a guy who Tango’s needs a good poem a times. Here’s one of mine that you might find useful.
Poetry for Play
Tonight is a night for poetry for play,
of the word well turned in grace
that gently caresses the long neck,
softly lifts the red hair on your head,
opens the fleshy pink folds of your mind,
whispers tenderly to your soul’s desire,
and raises, raises, raises and kisses
your expectations with a female understanding
of the worth of tending to the other’s wants.
Tonight I will hold you with no abruptness,
take your flesh’s warmth and embrace
and merely embrace it back as fiercely,
expect nothing more and demand even less,
bathed in this moment of pink-dawn light
I will supplicate before your spirited ways,
go to the altar of your life and love,
take the communion of your hope
and live up to it…no lies…no deceit…
no obstacles to your thoughts or beliefs.
Tonight, the ending of this poem is yours.
6:16 pm
As an American born but who grew up in Bs. As (Martinez), the high life is for those who had money. I didn’t and putting up with the constant “sentido del humor argentino” had it’s days. If you are not from there, you’re not from there…….
Argentines will always try to rip you off unless you are out in the provincia. That’s the name of the game, how can they scam and who can scam the best. In answer to the race question, Argentines are racist, anti-semitic, and often anti-yankee (yanqui). On the other hand, if you were dark but from Brazil, I wouldn’t anticipate problems since Argentines are quite often in awe of thier northern neighbor. Brazil is also the payground of the middle class for summer vacations. The dollar speaks louder than politics so people will happily relieve you of your dollars while complaining how imperialist the US is.
So, much of what the Ferris says exists, and yes, BS. As is a true city and can claim that with pride. But buyer beware, (or traveller as the case may be), almost every portenio is looking to get something from you.
6:08 pm
Hi Everyone!
As an Argentine living in Sydney, it causes a little bit of sadness to read how the city where I was born gets so lovely reviews…
It gave me the mix feeling of willing to go back and enjoy the lifestyle I sometimes miss.
On the other hand, as someone wisely mentioned in a previous comment, Buenos Aires might be great to live in…. if you have been born elsewhere and you have a different currency in your pocket :)
Tim, sos un hijo de puta!!! esto te lo digo como porteño y como ya habras aprendido, de pura (sana) envidia !!! :-)
Mariano
###
Mariano,
Che, por supuesto soy un hijo de puta. Que le vamos a hacer? Ja ja ja… Gracias mucho por el mensaje y espero que nos veamos en BsAs pronto :)
Un abrazo, Tim
10:47 am
Victoria vertner. why don’t you do it!!!
4:05 pm
I am a mortgage broker in La Jolla, CA. I have very little family here, but my wife is from Buenos Aires, (Lanus, pero somos de Independiente!!) and I would love to find a way to keep earning in dollars, and move down to BsAs, somewhere like Las Canitas would be great. Is there any network of Expats down there at all? Any network on this site would help as well. I would love to have some contacts of americans running businesses remotely from Argentina. I absolutely love Argentina, and if you were to see the bill from my last filet minon steak dinner from “el viejo canon” you would know why…
Any help? Thanks in advance!
8:47 pm
Thanks for the info, Timothy!
BA is Surreal (much better than Maimi). It is true, you can live like a rock star for nothing! This week I went to La Bistecca, Gran Bar Dazon (amazing veal for $13 US), Rojo Tango (very sexy), and spent at day the spa at Faena Hotel (I had the Yerba Mate Body treatment).
Off to Pacha Chau
8:32 am
Hi Tim…
I live in San Isidro, buenos Aires, and I´m too a fan of la Bistecca. Love your blog, and I just bought your book in Amazon … hope it will arrive soon . I´m really looking forward to read it. I have one question for you….
Do you have plans to publish it in Spanish? Hope that you´ll be launching it in Argentina… Marcos
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